In recent seasons, Thakoon Panichgul’s secondary line, Addition, has grown beyond the pretty dresses and printed pajamas it started off with to include more menswear-inspired tailoring and fresh styling ideas. But where Panichgul piled on the layers for Pre-Fall, here he peeled them off. “It’s about taking foundation pieces and then twisting them so they look slightly disheveled, like they’re coming undone,” he said, describing a girl who tosses on her boyfriend’s oversize cardigan (with nothing underneath, naturally), plucks a skirt off the floor, and dashes out the door. Another sweater came nonchalantly shrugged off the shoulder, adding an edge to the kicky LBD it was paired with. Shirting has emerged as a strong category for the designer.
He showed crisp button-ups peeking out from cozy knits, and added poplin touches to the sleeves and hem of a snug blazer. Outerwear highlights included a hooded cape cut from gray banker’s felt, ombré plaid toppers, and a classic duffle coat. All in all, a strong Addition outing that shined ideas on themes—artful dishevelment, men’s shirting, statement coats—that we expect to see more of when the Fall shows get underway next week.
John Patrick has long been an earth-obsessed designer. But this season, he turned his attention toward space. His latest Organic collection found him mashing up looks from the era of the moon shot—here, a long-sleeve jumpsuit in a material that looked like Tyvek there, pleated and pencil skirts with the modest hemlines favored by Right Stuff-era housewives. The fabric mix was intriguing—Patrick leaned hard on technicals, in particular sheer materials with a plastic sheen, but he also integrated a lot of cozy textures, such as quilted cotton, felted wool, and fur. The latter looked particularly appealing on this slushy day; meanwhile, the crispy high-neck blouses had a more trans-seasonal appeal. That approach was astute. You could even say, it was typically down-to-earth.
At this time of year, Stockholm is not a fashion-friendly place. The winds are frigid, the temperatures are freezing, and a thin layer of snow and ice makes it treacherous for heels. Not to mention, achieving just the right balance between cozily layered and overbundled is mighty tricky. While the locals were more or less prepared for the unfortunate conditions, the international press and buyers who descended upon the seventeenth Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week struggled to dress the part. However, local designers offered a host of fashionable-yet-practical solutions for Stockholm’s chilly weather in their Fall ’14 collections.
J.Lindeberg, designed by Jessy Heuvelink, presented a high-octane lineup inspired by the medusa, a large jellyfish that swims in cold, dark waters. Cleverly layering blue furs, black leather, and burgundy wool in his outerwear-focused offering, the designer presented a sexy, not-too-serious take on winter dressing.
Celebrating the brand’s fifteenth anniversary, Whyred womenswear designer Roland Hjort expertly layered trousers, dresses, and coats, which he presented in a palette of grays. The outing was topped off by fur jackets and silver Dr. Martens boots. The looks were elegant but stable.
Just when you start to tire of Awards Season, along comes the Grammys. The music industry’s biggest night tends to be a whole lot looser than the Globes or the Oscars, and that’s why we love it.Remember when Lady Gaga incubated her way down the red carpet in a giant plastic egg back in 2011? That was good TV! This year, if the antics seemed more muted, there were still some moments worth mentioning. Katy Perry played it relatively low-key—for her, at least—in a straight-from-couture number by Valentino embroidered in musical notes (La Traviata, in case you were wondering). Taylor Swift looked every inch the grown-up in glittering Gucci, even if
she lost to country upstart Kacey Musgraves. And Beyoncé made the little-known designer Michael Costello a household name overnight with her white lace gown. Not like a virgin at all. But the best-dressed prize goes to Daft Punk’s Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo and Thomas Bangalter, who won Album and Record of the Year. Their tuxes? Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. And though their collaborator Pharrell Williams took some knocks on social media for his Vivienne Westwood buffalo hat, we applaud the fact that he took a risk. After all, if we wanted to see celebrities play it safe, we’d watch the Oscars.
Merry Christmas Everyone!
Thankyou for all the support. More Posts & Great Things for 2014 to Come!
Kim Jones has centuries of National Geographic secreted in his hidey-hole. The man is a natural-history buff to give David Attenborough a run for his money. The fact that he is also Louis Vuitton’s men’s studio and style director only adds extraordinary layers to his passion for nature. Imagine how he felt as he researched the latest men’s collection for Vuitton in the Himalayas, hiking through the Bhutanese cloud forest, the only place in the world where tigers and snow leopards cross paths. Ah yes, it’s a designer’s life.
But Jones is a connoisseur of life in all its forms. He understands luxury. The snow leopard he so loves made its presence felt in the first look of today’s show: a cashmere coat with an underlay of mink that had been needle-punched through to the surface to make a pattern of snow leopard spots. The tone was set: technical expertise meets extravagance. Jones said that the goal was to introduce elements of LV’s bread-and-butter leather goods into the clothes. You could imagine a bag being cut from a single hide, but a cocoon coat? How big was that animal? The seamless modernity of the result was compounded by laser-cut slash pockets. It was the same with a puffa made from reindeer leather, or a parka trimmed with a wide band of VVT (Vache Végétal Teinté), the result of Vuitton’s environmentally sound means of leather production.
Bhutan’s ethnic dress has only ten patterns for checks and stripes. Picture a Nat Geo-phile like Jones going haywire for the possibilities presented by such limits. They were here in the Bhutanese stripes of a duffel or a poncho. The designer wanted them to stand for the things that travelers return home with. At the same time, he commissioned Dinos and Jake Chapman,
Brit-art provocateurs par excellence, to make images that would translate across clothing and accessories. Their snow leopard sweater was benign. Their Garden in Hell print was something else, a luxuriously graphic rendition of flora and fauna with fangs, rendered in silk jackets, robes, and lounging pajamas. The tux will never be the same. Nor will the carpetbag, so densely, intensely clotted with needle-punched embroidery that it was a work of art walking.
If those extremes defined the personality of Jones as a designer, the cufflinks carved from stones lifted from Everest said something about him as a dreamer. And he certainly reached the top of that mountain with today’s collection.